Silent Stories from Eyüp: A Walk of Prayer and Mystery

Hello everyone,

After a deeply moving trip to Istanbul, I felt compelled to share this unforgettable experience. There's so much to say—but let me start with a path that blends history, emotion, and reflection.

Following our visit to Eyüp Sultan, our tour guide Ms. Bilge told us we would walk up to Pierre Loti Hill. Since we were moving a bit faster, we informed her and started our climb slowly on our own.

If you’ve ever been there, you’ll know—the path winds through an old cemetery filled with both ancient and modern tombs. It’s more than just a walk—it feels like stepping into another time.

Eyüp Sultan Cemetery: A Silent Story of the Ages

The name Eyüp Sultan Cemetery comes from Abu Ayyub al-Ansari, who died during the failed siege of Constantinople in the 7th century. Over time, as people wished to be buried near him, the area turned into a sacred resting place.

Today, this cemetery is home to countless notable figures—sultans, grand viziers, commanders, spiritual leaders, Mevlevis, artists, and many others.

At first, walking among tombs might feel unsettling. But the further I went, the more it felt like I was walking through pages of history. I found myself reading every headstone, wondering who these people were, what lives they led, and how they had shaped the world around them.

Fevzi Çakmak and a Hidden Story

As we continued uphill, I came across the grave of Marshal Fevzi Çakmak, a key military figure during the Turkish War of Independence. He also served as the Minister of National Defense in the early years of the Turkish Republic.

Near his tomb was the grave of Mevlana Küçük Hüseyin Efendi, and just below it, another one belonging to Sıtkı Ozansoy.

Later, I discovered a chilling connection between these three names. Years ago, businessman Üzeyir Garih was murdered in this cemetery—right after visiting Mevlana Hüseyin Efendi’s grave, something he did every Saturday. The murder weapon—a knife—was missing for days until it was found buried next to Sıtkı Ozansoy’s tomb.

It turns out that Fevzi Paşa was a friend of Garih’s father, and Garih regularly visited Hüseyin Efendi. This eerie triangle of people and events felt like a quiet echo of a hidden narrative.

Interestingly, Sıtkı Ozansoy’s tomb bears a poem dedicated to Hüseyin Efendi—yet another layer to this story.

Zekâi Dede and a Musical Pause

Towards the end of our walk, we also found the grave of the classical Turkish music composer Zekâi Dede Efendi. But I’ve decided to save his story for another day, as Turkish classical music is a deep and fascinating subject on its own.

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Sometimes, walks like this aren’t just steps—they are whispers from the past. That day in Eyüp Sultan Cemetery, I didn’t just walk. I listened, learned, and reflected.

Until next time,
See you at the next stop on Tat Kitap Yol.